Today was officially my last sewing class for the time being. (Although actually, I’m sneaking in an extra one next week to make up for one I missed).

So, having finished my skirt, I needed a project that could be completed in just a couple of sessions.

My tutor suggested I try making a simple pattern from an item of my clothing. I wasn’t sure what to use, so I brought in a couple of options…

The first turned out to be too complicated. I mean, smocking! What was I thinking?! The second is made in a stretch fabric, so I wasn’t really too sure about that either.

But I went for it anyway.

The basic technique for creating a pattern is to lay your garment out, draw around it onto greaseproof paper (adding a seam allowance) and then cut out the paper pattern.

Me, being me, was then all keen to just get stuck into cutting out and sewing up. I am the sort of dressmaker that has no truck with pfaff. When I’ve decided to make something, I want to get on and make it, not pfaff about making a shoddy facsimile of it in ugly fabric.

But bowing to a greater knowledge, I was talked into creating a “toile” first. The purpose of that enormous roll of cheap polyester shirting in the corner of the sewing room suddenly became clear…

A toile is a version of a garment made in cheap materials to test a pattern. It is also sometimes called a “muslin”.

I have to say, somewhat unexpectedly, that I am an instant convert to the toile.

Making a pattern that actually fits is, as I’ve already discovered, the hardest thing about dressmaking. And this one was no exception.

My toile’s sleeves were too tight. And of different lengths. It’s neckline was too high. The waist wasn’t quite wide enough. In short, my toile was a frankenstein’s monster of a garment. But it saved me from wasting oodles of my precious nice fabric. And for that I love it.

The only issue now is where I’m going to find fabric cheap enough and ugly enough to be put to work making future toiles…

Oh, and what on earth I’m going to do with that ill-fitting, lop-sided polyester abomination I brought home with me 🙂